G'day Robin,

There are two auto-resetting 50A circuit breakers under the red silicone covers that look like lego pieces, inside the lid.
Hope that helps.

G'day Adam,

With the exception of the 175A "jump start" Anderson, the power for all outlets runs through the main isolator switch directly into a 50A circuit breaker.  You'll be limited in continuous output by that 50A breaker.
The physical isolator switch does have a current rating on it, and Hard Korr were unfortunately unable to provide me with that information, but given the jump start port is powered directly through the switch it, would be rated to at least 175A minimum...likely around 200A.
Hope that helps.

G'day Tania,

Only the 12v cig outlets are fused, the Anderson outputs/inputs arent fused but they do have 2 breakers.
Realistically you shouldn't need a fuse, but if you want to add one in you can do something line an inline on whatever charge input cable you're using.

G'day Alan,

The 175A at 12v is 2100W, so based on that info you shouldn't have any issues connecting your 2000W inverter.

G'day Mark,

No, it can't.  Essentially the Main battery switch is an isolator, all the Andersons run through this, so when the switch is off, these ports are off aswell.

G'day Geoffrey,

Yes, you would run your DC to DC cable and plug it into the Anderson Input on the Hard Korr Battery Box.
All anderson ports, either input or output, are rated to 50A.
Hope that helps!

G'day Cameron,

Yep, no worries. As long as the batteries you are using are both the same chemistry, you wont have any problems.

G'day Greg,

The 50A Anderson plugs have a 50A circuit breaker.
Hope that helps!

G'day Shane,

No, there's not.
As long as you can fit the battery into the box itself, it doesn't matter what the capacity is.

G'day Alvin,

Yep, you absolutely can.  There is both Anderson input and Anderson output terminals on the Heavy Duty Battery Box.

G'day Michael,

We've measured these boxes a few times with the most accurate equipment we can get our hands-on. Based on our measurements we don't think a battery 33.2cm will quite fit without damaging the box.

G'day Luke,

Ive checked in with HArd Korr on this one, and unfortunately there's no IP/IPX rating on the Battery Box

G'day Paul,

Great question, and no it won't. The Battery Indicator is calculated from the voltage, so set up more ideally for non-lithium battery options.
The voltage readout will obviously be accurate, but best not to reply on the indicator.

G'day Martin,

The Hard Korr Heavy Duty Battery Box is only compatible with 12V batteries, so unfortunately you won't be able to use a 24V battery. They are however compatible with lithium batteries if you opted for a 12V option.

G'day Jared,

The Heavy Duty Battery Box hasn't been designed to charge from a 10A cig plug in your car. The 50A Anderson ports are input and output, Hard Korr recommends utilising one of these ports with a VSR and dual battery wiring kit (in the "you might also like section") to charge this from your vehicle while driving.

G'day David,

The Heavy Duty Battery Box doesn't have an inbuilt solar regulator, so your panels will need to have a built-in regulator, or you'd need to purchase one separately. If you're wanting to charge from your vehicle and set it up as a second battery then you'd need to mini VSR unit and the dual battery wiring kit. This will be suitable for most vehicles, however, if you've got a vehicle with a smart alternator we'd recommend discussing the options with your auto-electrician.

G'day Narongsak,

Unfortunately not, the largest unit we're got is the Hard Korr Battery Box.

G'day Jimmy,

The Heavy Duty Battery Box isn't weatherproof, so we wouldn't recommend leaving it in a ute tray without a canopy.

G'day Tom,

The Dual Battery Wiring Kit and VSR are a great option if you're wanting to charge the battery while driving without accidentally flattening your main battery. You can find both products in the "you might also like" section on the product page.

G'day Andrew,

We'd recommend chatting to the company you purchase your battery from about the 240V deep cycle battery chargers they carry, and grabbing one when you purchase the battery.

G'day Paula,

Based on the information we have from Hard Korr in the downloadable user guide there doesn't seem to be a reason why you couldn't pop the unit in a cupboard in your caravan. This battery box has specifically been designed to be fairly portable, so there will likely be some caravan specific options out there, however, there isn't any reason we can think of that will stop you using this as you've described.

G'day Hayden,

The limitation here is the physical box/battery size, so as long as it will physically fit in the box then you can go for a 140Ah battery, generally the largest that will fit are 130Ah, but if you've found a larger capacity that will still physically fit then you should be fine!

G'day Josh,

We're confident that our dimensions are as accurate as they can be, so you're right if it does fit it will be a very very close fit. Unfortunately we're not sure whether it would fit or not. We've been asked about this particular combination before, but as we're not able to give it a go for ourselves we're not sure if it works. 

G'day Rick,

We've measured this a few times with the most accurate gear we've got, and unfortunately, we don't think anything larger than 324mm will fit without damaging the box.

G'day Heath,

Ok, great questions & I'm going to answer them as clearly as I can!

Ultimately the Hard Korr Battery Box is literally just an empty box with hardware to turn a battery into something with functional usage.
The box itself is not the variable when it comes to whether or not your laptop or e-Bike can charge, its the battery you will put inside it which is important.

Firstly, when it comes to the physical charge connections between your items and the battery box, the most simple option would be for you to purchase an inverter that will plug straight into the Battery Box and then allow you to plug a 240V plug into the other side.
Out of those 2 items you are wanting to charge, the e-Bike will have the highest power draw requirement, so first things first is to look at the specifications of your bike and find out what the wattage requirement is for charging.
A quick google suggests that on average an eBike requires 540W, so in this example you would be getting an inverter with a max wattage that will comfortably cover this.
It will also mean that your laptop or any other smaller appliance will happily charge from the same source.
The other thing to note about the inverter you chose is that it needs to be Anderson plug compatible, as the 12v ports on the battery box will not output enough watts.

In terms of the battery to go inside the box, I have a few thoughts!
I would definitely be going for a lithium battery hands down, you'll get a larger capacity for a smaller size.  I'd say you'll be wanting to get a 100Ah capacity minimum just to be sure, and I also would only be charging during the day with solar panels connected to keep the battery topped up.

If you are intending to do your charging overnight you will first need to look up the Ah of your specific e-Bike battery, as they will all vary, aswell as your laptop.  Add these together and make sure you've got Ah that is atleast double that so you're not flogging your battery.  I would say that the 100Ah would be ok for this, but triple check.

The 200W solar panels you have mentioned would be absolutely perfect, and they come with a lithium capable solar controller which is exactly what you need.
It will literally just be a plug and play type scenario.

So, to cap it all off you will need a Hard Korr Battery Box, a Lithium battery, an inverter with anderson connection to cover your max Wattage requirements, and solar panels with a solar regulator.

Hope that all makes sense, and please let us know if you have any other questions!

G'day Sean,

The Battery Box doesn't have circuit breakers, generally, they're used in 240V systems. The input/outputs are limited to 10A or 50A depending on whether you're using the cigarette plugs, or Anderson plugs. The User Guide can also be downloaded at the bottom of the specifications section if you're needing any more information.

G'day Greg,

We've checked and the battery box has no vents. According to the instructions, which you can download above, the box must remain sealed whilst it is charging or in use.

G'day Da,

You can charge the DC, however you won't be able to do this via the cigarette socket. You'll either need a DCDC charger, or a VSR Kit to set up a dual battery system.

G'day Steve,

There are no additional parts required to use a LifePO4 battery in the Battery Box. If you want to charge the battery from mains power you can just use a standard car style battery charger, you'll just need to ensure it's able to charge the battery size you choose.

G'day Olivier,

*UPDATE:  We now sell batteries! You can find our range here.

We don't actually sell batteries, so we'd recommend dropping into your local battery retailer for some options. Generally, we'd suggest a battery around 110Ah or more to run a fridge and some accessories.

G'day Ben,

There are a number of Anderson Ports, with 4 x 50A ports that can be used for input or output, so yes based on your description you should have 1 to spare.